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But in addition to his award-winning croissants and baguettes, Lebovitz is a big fan of Turquier's pain d'epices , a French spice cake with hints of orange marmalade and a texture that falls appealingly between cake-like and rubbery. "The pain d'epices are sold by the slab and they hover over the loaf with a knife when you go to buy some," says Lebovitz, " and you just say 'yes' when to cut or let them know if you want more."