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Mahir Lokantası opens at noon and there is normally a line out the door for much of the day, but Nazlıcan was gracious enough to invite me an hour beforehand to taste some of his çiğ köfte and explain its secrets. We started with a simple-but-delicious breakfast of soft, mozzarella-esque cheese from Diyarbakır, sliced tomatoes and peppers, black olives, extra virgin olive oil and warm, chewy, hand-shaped flatbread fresh from the oven.